A guide to caring for reptiles

  O.N.A.R.R. does not recommend that you pick up any reptile, bird or animal
that may cause you harm. We suggest you contact a registered carer or register
head within this group or any other registered wildlife group to handle any
situation in which either yourself or the animal is put in peril. For any kind of
snake, we recommend that you contact a person who has experience in handling
snakes before you taking any other steps.
 

Reptiles can come to us with a huge variety of ailments and injuries, but all of them will be
suffering from shock and stress. Reptiles can, and will, shut themselves down until they die when
overcome with the shock of an injury and the stress of human contact.
When caring for reptiles, the three main requirements are heat, water and solitude. Other treatments will depend on the injury.
Reptiles will continue to stress while in care, so release as soon as possible.
When transporting reptiles, it is best to use drawstring bags or pillowcases. The animals settle in the
bags, unable to see or smell much, which keeps them calmer than if they were in a tub. If you find
an injured reptile, and are awaiting a carer to pick it up, using a pillowcase will keep it calm.
Please remember that venomous snakes are not covered under most wildlife caring permits – call someone who has a restricted reptiles permit.
For treatment of injuries, it is always best to consult a vet. Minor cuts and abrasions can simply be
treated with betadine, or Medi honey. Antibacterial bath is also available from vets. More serious
wounds should be treated by the vet who can administer any antibiotics or other treatments.

  Have you found an injured or young reptile?

Generally, reptiles come into care due to car hit, dog / cat attacks, poisoning or human attack. Few come into care because they are 'orphaned'. Reptiles are quite self-sufficient from a young age; they do not rely on mum and dad for survival.

First question you will need to ask yourself, especially when locating an injured snake, is “Is this animal dangerous?” If you can’t answer that question, call someone who will be able to help. Never put your own safety at risk.

Reptiles are ectothermic, which means they are unable to generate enough heat to stay at a stable temperature. This means if you are caring for our scaly friends, you will need an external heat source to keep them warm. If they are not kept at a sufficient temperature, their metabolism will shut down, and you will have a starving animal on your door, if not a dead one.

General species that come into care are -

Turtles – short necks and long necks etc.

Lizards – most common in care are bearded dragons and blue tongues

Snakes – Carpet pythons and green tree snakes

For turtles a carer will need a fish tank or escape proof pond in which to house the animal. This tank/pond needs to be large enough that the animal can swim freely without touching the sides. Turtles also require a UV light, heat and a good calcium source.

Lizards and snakes will need a terrarium or fish tank, even an old cupboard or storage box can be converted into a rehab home for these guys. Again, make sure any enclosure is escape proof, remembering lizards and especially snakes can get out of very, very small holes. Lizards too will need a UV source; however, both will require heat.

Some things to have on hand if you care/or wish to care for reptiles.

1) Frozen rat and mouse pinkies (purchased from a pet store, both lizards and snakes will love these)

2) Tongs (saves your hand being food)

3) Insectivore mix

4) Mealworms (purchased from pet store)

5) Lamb / Beef heart

6) Appropriate enclosures, heating equipment and UV lights

7) Towels / sheets

8) Calcium powder

9) Gloves

10) Syringes

11) Tweezers

12) Ceramic water bowls

13) Newspaper

14) Betadine or similar

Caring for reptiles is just as rewarding as caring for any other injured animal; however, keep in mind, the affection may not be reciprocated.

  Always remember, safety first. If you are not 100% positive on the ID of the snake, treat it as though it is venomous. Use snake hooks, head pinning tools or even a long stick to pick up the snake. By holding the tail at the vent area, you can use the hook or stick to pick up the rest of the body. Have deep drawstring bags ready and always put the snake in the bag headfirst.
Whilst in care, keep the snake in a clip seal tub. Snakes do not require UV lighting. Use newspaper or paper towel on the flooring, a water dish big enough for the animal to get into and an old cereal box or ice cream container for a hide area. The hide box should be just big enough for the snake to curl up in securely. Only one quarter of the tub should be placed onto a heat mat. Put the hide in the end on the heat, and the water at the cooler end. The heat mat should be running 24 hours a day.
Depending on the treatment needed, limit your contact with the animal to only the times treatment is to be administered. Never keep a snake in captivity longer than needed. It is rare for wild snakes to feed in care, and depending on the species, it is highly possible you will not be able to obtain the meals required. Not all snakes eat rodents and not many will take a thawed rat, so the sooner they get back to the wild, the sooner they will fend for themselves.  

As with snakes, transport injured lizards using a bag or pillowcase. Injured lizards are best kept outdoors, where they can get natural sunlight. Whilst you can set up lizard enclosures with UV lighting inside, the wild animal will recover much quicker if kept in its normal environment. Small aviaries are perfect for housing lizards, as long as the flooring is wired. Lizards can, and do, dig. Provide hollow logs, leafy climbing branches and a water source deep enough for the lizard to be able to sit in. If the lizard has many hiding spots, it will feel more secure. As with snakes, limit your interaction with the animal to administering treatment.
Lizards are fairly easy to feed in a captive environment. They will not always feed if they are aware of you. By placing a dish of fresh vegetables and fruit in the enclosure, or by releasing crickets or wood roaches, and walk away, the lizard will more than likely feed.  

Pillowcases are also the best transport option for turtles. It is fine for a turtle to completely dry out, but as they do not drink, they do need to be kept in water. Also requiring UV light, Turtles in care are best kept outdoors. Aviaries with large ponds are perfectly suited for turtles. You can use anything you like for a pond, but the turtle will need to be able to leave the pond, and return as it wishes. It needs to be at least 5 times the size of the turtle. Turtles do need a lot of room, but in short term care, a smaller area will suffice.
Small cuts and abrasions can be treated just as with snakes and lizards. Shell trauma is something only a vet can treat.  

 
Disease control protocol should always be observed whether you have your own captive reptiles or not.
Keep care reptiles outside, or in an area of your home where people and other pets cannot come into contact with them.
Wash your hands before and after treating the animal. Reptiles can pick up diseases from us, just as we can from them.
Sterilize any equipment you use in between use. This includes the tubs, water dishes etc, once the reptile has been released. In the case of outdoor aviaries, thoroughly rinse out ponds and dishes.
Hose down the entire aviary and leave to sun dry for as long as possible.
Bleach is a great sterilizer, just remember to rinse thoroughly.